The Double Indemnitini

Our themed cocktail of the night the Double Indemnitini is a delicious mixture of Cork Dry Gin, Lemon Juice, Sugar Syrup and Perrier.

Femme Fatale Hair and Makeup Inspiration

                                                   Barbara Stanwyck in Double Indemnity

                                                   Rita Hayworth in Gilda

                                                   Lauren Bacall in The Big Sleep

                                                   Claire Trevor in Murder My Sweet

                                                   Gene Tierney in Laura

                                           Linda Darnell in Fallen Angel

                                           Ann Blyth in Mildred Pierce

                                           Doris Dowling in The Blue Dahlia

                                           Jean Gillioe in Decoy

                                                       Ava Gardner in The Killers

                                                   Lana Turner in The Postman Always Rings Twice

                                           Jane Greer in Out of The Past

                                                     Gloria Swanson in Sunset Boulevard

                                                     Gloria Grahame in The Big Heat

                                           Marilyn Monroe in Niagra

                                           Kim Novak in Vertigo

                                                   Veronica Lake in This Gun For Hire
                                                

Double Indemnity Fashion, Barbara Stanwyck as Phyllis Dietrichson

Chief designer, costume legend Edith Head determined the style of Paramount and other large Hollywood studios till the  late 60s. This grande dame of costume design created the outfits for one of the darkest and most fascinating femme fatales, Barbara Stanwyck as Phyllis Dietrichson in Double Indemnity. She packed the undoubtable attraction of female sexuality into feminine strictness and simple smartness.   

Full on Glamour

With Barabara Stanwyck as the icy blonde, one of the keys looks was  juxtaposing the femme fatale nature with a look of innocence in fragile white costumes that made her look delicate and feminine against her structured hair and pouty red lips which showed her harder edge.This look is casual but glamorous, to recreate choose a long sleeved jump suit in light coloured silk or chiffon material. Use a similar coloured piece of ribbon to tie at the waist. A Maxi dress will work just as well as a jumpsuit, or alternatively mix a similar coloured shirt with a long skirt and tie in the middle with ribbon. For the more creatively inclined take a silk dressing gown and sew the two sides together and voila a long silky maxi dress.

 

Casual Flirty Day Dress

A pretty long sleeved day dress with soft ruffles and a high neck is still playful and fun by showing abit of leg. Modern versions of this dress are very popular at the moment so hunt around, Penny's will always have something similar. 

1940s House Wife

To achieve the perfect 1940s house wife  look choose a simple light shirt in either chiffon or silk with dark patterns and wear it with a dark pencil skirt. A pencil skirt that flares out a little at the bottom will help balance out your figure and  accentuates a  femme fatale hourglass shape.

 

Smart Casual Femme Fatale 

In the film this outfit was actually a pair of wide legged trousers and a fitted jumper but an a-line skirt is used in all the promotional material and I think it's foxier. Although the film is in black and white the promotional posters show her in a pink boat neck sweater and black skirt, a very sweet but sassy colour combo. To put this outfit together go for a light pink, tight fitting round neck jumper, paired with an a-line skirt, a pencil skirt or wide legged trousers and finished off with a thin black patent belt, black patent shoes and abit of bling around your neck. The key to styling this outfit is to tuck in the jumper and make sure that the belt  is slightly lower than the top of the skirt.

Femme Fatale Suit 

Every femme fatale must own a good skirt suit, a matching fitted jacket and pencil skirt with a crisp white fitted shirt.

Checkered print for a checkered past 

A perfect 40s pattern, a full blown checkered black and white ensemble or just a hint of it can bring together a stylish femme fatale outfit.

Little Black Dress

 Every femme fatale needs her little black dress, with this one the devil is in the detail. Add fringing to the sleeves and hem for a slinky look and a giant brooch to recreate the look.

The Mac

The perfect coat for detectives and the ladies that they investigate

Accesories

Phyllis has many extravagant accessories, dominant jewelry (big ring and broad bracelet) which she combines with the high-heeled shoes in patent black and light satin with puff ball decor. While lined stockings, heels and red  lipstick are a must you can't play a murderous 'grieving' widow without a good veiled hat and gloves. If you really want to emulate Phyllis don't forget your anklet.

Barbara Stanwyck's 1940s noir makeup

A fantastic guide on how to achieve Barbara Stanwyck's  Double Indemnity 1940s noir makeup  by a lady who embodies old school glamour, top makeup artist, Kate O'Reilly.

Due to WWII rationing and long hours in the factory, the 1940’s femme fetale was also a practical, low maintainance kinda gal. Practical in a glamorous red lipstick wearing kinda way!

1. Apply a natural foundation that matches your skin tone. Use concealer as needed and set with powder. The 1940s girl was never shiney!
2. Using a soft largeish eyeshadow brush (like Bobbi Brown “Eye Shadow Brush” or MAC 217) sweep a light matte brown eyeshadow (like MAC Kid or Malt) all over the eyelid and apply a little extra to the crease of the eye. Don’t worry too much about this step, the best is yet to come!
3. Using a medium brown eyebrow pencil (like Laura Mercier  “Soft Brunette”) define the brows in an elogated curve, somewhere between a pointed arch and tadpole round.
4. Apply a very thin line of liquid eyeliner (Rimmel Flash Eyeliner) to the top lash line and flick out at the very end, mimicking the corner of your lashes.
5. Finish eyes with lashings of mascara and remember to comb through!
6. To get Barbara’s “bird beak” effect on your lips, use a lip liner to exagerate the curve on your top lip, not around the cupid’s bow (in the centre) but after the cupids bow instead, where the lip curves down to the corners.
7. For a long lasting lip, apply your lipstick (something like Rimmel Lasting Finish by Kate Moss 01) in layers. Use a lip brush to work the first layer into your lip, blot with tissue and repeat once or twice.

1940s lipsticks were often an orange red or redwood shade. Experiment with orange, purple or darker mahogony toned reds to see which one you prefer on your own skin tone

Kate’s favorite red lipsticks:
Matte True Red – MAC “Ruby Woo”
Dark Vamp Purple – Tom Ford “Black Orchid”
Hot Orange Red – NARS “Heat Wave”
Hollywood Scarlet – Bobbi Brown “Hollywood Red”

For the ULTIMATE vintage lipsticks check out The Lipstick Queen’s (www.lipstickqueen.com) collection in Space NK, just opened in Harvey Nicholls Dundrum. TO DIE FOR!


http://www.kateoreillymakeup.com/#!
http://kateoreillymakeup.wordpress.com/

Double Indemnity Trailer

Barbara Stanwyck's Hair

"Sure, that was a highly intelligent actress, Miss Stanwyck. I questioned the wig, but it was proper, because it was a phony wig. It was an obviously phony wig. And the anklet — the equipment of a woman, you know, that is married to this kind of man. They scream for murder", Billy Wilder on Barbara Stanwyck.

For those looking to imitate Barbara Stanwyck's ultimate femme fatale hair the first option is to do what Barbara did herself and wear a wig  (simlar wigs can be found in the joke shop) but why not try the look out yourself.

Step 1: Be a curly girl
For the wavy haired ladies style hair as normal, for curly hair tease your curly out gently with a comb and for straight hair you can use a curling thongs or hair pins to add a wave to your hair. 
  
Pin curls
These can be tricky at first if you're new to more involved hair styling. Pin-curls are a 1940's staple, and are necessary for many 1930s and 1950s hairstyles as well.

• Find a setting lotion that works well your hair type. This may take some trial and error, so be patient, ladies!
• Start with washed hair, and let it air dry or blow dry so that it is still damp. It is most useful to put setting lotion into an atomizer (plus, lots more fun!) because it can be applied more evenly.
• Comb through hair and part into sections. Sections of hair can be from ½ inch to 1½ inch thickness, depending on how thick your hair is, or how it reacts to curling. If you want a certain set, curl in the directions that it will need to go in the final style. If you want just the ends curled, start with the underneath sections of hair, and work up.
• Wind the curl around your finger, making sure that the strand isn't twisted in any manner that would disrupt the direction of the curl. Once the end is started, it is easier to roll up more.
• For more wavy curls, roll pin curls in a spiral.
• For more ringlet styles, remember to keep the curls uniform and make a little donut shape.
• Pin with bobby pins (best for spiraled pin curls) or regular hair pins (better for pin curls that don't lay as flat).
• To make waves along the face, wave clips can be used, but these are hard to sleep in and best for use with hairdryers.
• Avoid rolling ends too tightly, or they will be frizzy.
• Despite the difficulty this may be to master, after only a few sets you should find it easier to do and take less and less time. Actually, this is a very low maintenance style because it can be done the night before, and only needs to be brushed out in the morning and dolled up with just a few pins. And sets like this can double up on evenings with a just a few more pins! A set can last from one to five days if kept up at night in a snood or scarf.

Step 2: The Rat
For the faux fringe you will need a hair rat , the traditional method of making a hair rat involved saving hair from your hair brush and rolling it up into a sausage shape. Yes, it's free, it's easy, it's historically accurate and it won't show if your hair slips but since most of us don't collect their loose hairs here is method of making your own hair rat, you will need:

a pair of scissors
fiberfill (used for pillow stuffing)
a fishnet stocking (I use one that is close to my hair color)The fishnet allows for easy and secure pinning

1.) Cut the stocking so it is about 6 or 7 inches long


2.)Roll a hand full of fiberfill into a long sausage shape.

3.)Insert fiberfill into stocking

4.) Stretch the stocking out, rolling it between your hands so that it forms to the desired shape. Spreading the fiberfill throughout the stocking

5.)Add a bit more fiberfill if needed

6.)tie off or sew end of stocking closed. Looks like a strange potato!


Alternatively you can buy a foam hair bun donut in Penny's and cut it in the middle.


Step 3: The Faux Fringe 

The key to using a rat is to roll it really tight. Start by parting your hair with the tail end of a comb so that everything is even. Wrap the ends of your hair around the rat, being sure that the sides of your hair are wrapped tightly and roll it up. Keep the hair in the center of the rat as you roll it up. As you roll, pull the rat away from your face so that the hair is wrapped tightly. When you get it rolled to your liking, pin eack end of the rat, making an "X" shape with the pins. use your fingers to spread the hair evenly across the ray, covering up any foam (or hair if you use a rat made of hair). If you have gaps, use a comb or your fingers to close the gaps with your hair. Spray the heck out of it with hairspray and you're done. It takes practice to get it just right. Keep trying, it will get there!


Pull the rest of your hair back and secure it with a clip so it stays out of the way. Brush the front section out and roll it up in the rat as shown. Make sure to roll the hair up very tightly so the ends don't puff out. This part takes some practice!
Pin the rat to your head so the rat forms a "U" shape. Make an "X" with the pins to secure it in place.
Grip the rat in the center and very lightly pull the hair towards the sides of your face so that it spreads evenly across the rat. Be very gentle and make sure to fill in any gaps so that the rat is no longer visible. I use a comb to very lightly brush over the top to smooth it all out (you can see the smoothness in the finished product photos). Finish with a TON of hairspray.


Now style your waves around your face and voila it's Phyllis Dietrichson.

            

http://www.wikihow.com/Create-an-American-1940%27s-Hairstyle
http://vavoomvintage.blogspot.com/